Autumn/Winter 2016 is the first season for which I have decided to look at both Womenswear and Menswear. In contemporary culture we are seeing traditional gender boundaries being challenged and the once obvious line between male and female being blurred, this has had an effect on the runway collections. Recently we have seen an increasing amount of combined Women+Men collections and in the collections that have been gender separated, I have noticed that the women all appear very masculine and the men effeminate. Not that it makes much difference when it comes to fashion, as it is the clothes that capture your attention and steal your focus away from the model, but it still acts as an interesting comment on modern society and how the accepted norms are being altered. I am actually really keen to write a blog post about our movements towards a 'genderless society' and will hopefully get round to doing it over the next month. This month, however, is fashion week and Premiere Vision month so I'm going to be a little overworked creating trend boards.
Anyway back to the collections.....here are a few of my favourites:
Christopher Kane's collection sits perfectly with his women's Pre-fall 16 range and I love them both in equal measure. The colour palette is tight with clean modern line graphics and photographic car crash imagery. The neon pop colours in this collection really help in lifting the general Autumn/Winter colour palette of black and dark, rich, earthy colours.
Helen Anthony is a Savile row British brand that brought a colourful modern dandy look to the Autumn/Winter collections. Amongst a sea of black, Helen Anthony's colour combination of bright blues and reds infused with miniature geometric and abstract prints really caught my attention.
The Issey Miyake collection has my favourite AW16 menswear colour palette- strong, rich winter brights. Miyake mixes blue with yellow, burnt orange with forest green and prussian blue, toned down with darker shades of teal, navy and deep rosewood red.
Kenzo makes it into my favourites every time, maybe I'm a little biased but I always seem to find joy in their collections. AW16 was no exception; a tight bright colour palette and delicate linear prints set against abstract mark making designs.
Marcelo is a brand I've never heard of but loved nonetheless. Extremely tight and appealing colour palette of Black, white, orange, blue and pink paired with an eclectic range of prints. I was particularly drawn to the styling of the collection, models with dreadlocks, piercings and tattoos- extremely laid back.
Missoni just keeps going from strength to strength, this is another design label that has made it into the favourite section for both my Men's AW16 and my Women's Pre-fall 16 group. The colour combinations, the ombre stripes, just everything!
Usually I place Moschino with Versace in my garish-borderline-tacky category of fashion, but this collection really won me over. It actually reminded me of the 1985 A-ha single 'take on me' where the singers in a comic book come to life but retain their sketchy look(if you aren't familiar with the song here's a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djV11Xbc914&gl=BE). This whole collection looks like it has been hand rendered with the bright colours adding to the pop art-esque comic book feel.
So that's all of my favourites. There will be posts on colour, styling and print coming shortly!