|Givenchy AW 13.|
Although tartan has strong associations with the 90's grunge movement, this fabric is the widely recognized uniform of the Punk movement a traditionally British fabric to represent a subculture of British origin.
|1970's punk sub-culture.|
|Left to right: Zandra Rhodes and on of her dresses, Vivienne Westwood's previous work and the designer herself..|
So why the emergence of Punk now?
I refuse to accept that fashion is simply based on aesthetics and believe that if we acknowledge that fashion is an industry which responds to social and political atmosphere, it is possible to predict what trends are going to gain popularity.
The world, the UK in particular, is currently experiencing a great deal of change, controversy and rebellion, this is the perfect social atmosphere for punk, a style embracing and actively encouraging rebellion, to re-emerge. Although most of the current catastrophes are focussed away from home, it is our reaction to these circumstances which allows Punk and similar rebellious fashion styles to creep back in. It is a psychological certainty that in times of turmoil we refer back to what we know, and the return to Punk styling is a perfect example of this.
The recent 'Punk:Chaos to Couture' exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York(which ended in August)featured work from designers such as Versace, Galliano and Christopher Kane amongst many other renowned names. It attempted to harness the Punk spirit and draw parallels between contemporary fashion and vintage punk(see images below).
According to Andrew Bolton(Curator at the Metropolitan Museum),
"Since its origins, punk has had an incendiary influence on fashion, Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness."
It is this 'youthful rebellion' and 'aggressive forcefulness' that ensures that Punk will continue to re-emerge whenever there is a social atmosphere of unrest.
Anyway, on a more aesthetic note, below are my picks from the high street stores. Personally I think that Topshop with its variation of tartan colour ways and Forever21 with its experimentation of tartan applique(love jumper and cross knee leggings) have interpreted this trend best.