The second floral trend that caught my attention was the stencil style floral. A simple cutout floral silhouette on a block base colour, effortless but effective. A potential move on for the 90's grunge daisy we have been seeing so much of lately?(http://textilecandy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/fresh-as-daisy.html)
The final floral trend from New York I want to focus on is the overlaying of florals on patterned, usually geometric, backgrounds.Polka dots at Oscar De La Renta, stripes at Nicole Miller and the popular grid print at Rebecca Minkoff. My favourite, however, has got to be Clover Canyon, with its striped/geometric shape backgrounds, transparent overlays and floral motifs it is the perfect combination of 3 of the most popular SS14 trends.
Monday, 23 September 2013
New York fashion week: Floral print trends
New York fashion week: Animal prints, typography and novelty prints!
Although there was still a lot of leopard print at New York fashion week, new animal prints are being introduced and gaining catwalk popularity. Striking monochromatic zebra prints were shown in the collections of Alexandre Herchcovitch, Escada and Diane Von Furstenberg and tonal grey snake prints were prominent at Zac Posen, J.Mendel and Elie Tahari.
I love the fact that designers are breaking away from more traditional spot-like animal prints and experimenting with reptilian inspired patterns.
I was surprised to see that there weren't very many typographic prints and slogan garments on the SS14 catwalks. I managed to scrape a few together but was quite disappointed in the lack of variety!This being said I did like the Libertine Love typography and the way the eye was used in place of an 'o'.
1.Libertine, 2.Catherine Malan, 3.Libertine, 4.Assembly, 5.Jeremy Scott, 6.Suno, 7.Mara Hoffman, 8.Red Valentino, 9.Diane Von Furstenberg, 10.Ostwald Helgason, 11.Ostwald Helgason. |
I love Helgason's poodle prints so much that I just had to show you a close up of them...Whether or not this design will actually sell is questionable, but bonus points go out to Helgason for having the audacity to use sexualised animals in printed jumpers.
New York fashion week: Geometric prints, lines and polka dots!
Earlier this month, after a work shopping trip around London, I identified the popularity of the geometric trend. This has continued in New York fashion week with designers such as Tess Giberson and Jonathan Simkhai championing the juxtaposition of geometric shapes and lines.
1.Tess Giberson, 2.Jonathan Simkhai, 3.Louise Goldin, 4.Louise Goldin, 5.Tibi, 6.Custo Barcelona, 7.Lela Rose, 8.Donna Karan, 9.Mara Hoffman, 10.Parsons, 11.Nicole Miller, 12. Herve Leger. |
Another extremely popular trend at New York fashion week was the usage of structural lines. This falls into place perfectly with Stylesight's 'creed' trend for SS14 (http://textilecandy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/stylesights-trend-predictions-ss14.html) which was characterized by linear graphics, infinite lines and transparent layers.
1.Carolina Herrera, 2.Marc Jacobs, 3.Yigal Azrouel, 4.Ohne Titel, 5.Carolina Herrera, 6.Bibhu Mohapatra, 7.Ohne Titel, 8.Ohne Titel, 9.Clover Canyon,10.Dion Lee |
Friday, 20 September 2013
New York fashion week: Tartan/Grid print trend
I recently did an AW13 trend post about red tartan and its increasing popularity, it was all over the AW13 catwalks back in January and sure enough is now extremely popular on the high street. I was, and still am, extremely excited to see whether catwalk designers have done a spring take on this trend or abandoned it altogether.
There were only a few designers at New York fashion week who used brightened up tartans in their collections(Richard Chai and A Detacher to name just a few). This being said there was an abundance of grid prints resembling tartans, possible move on?
Kaelen and L.A.M.B were my favourite grid print designers, both using large scale grid prints in striking black and white. It will be extremely interesting to see whether any of the British designers at London fashion week are advocating this tartan/grid pint trend.
1.A Detahcer, 2.Tadashi Shoji, 3.Kaelen, 4.Richard Chai Love, 5.Jen Kao, 6.The Elder Statesmen, 7.Araks, 8.Tadashi Shoji, 9.Tess Giberson. |
There were only a few designers at New York fashion week who used brightened up tartans in their collections(Richard Chai and A Detacher to name just a few). This being said there was an abundance of grid prints resembling tartans, possible move on?
Kaelen and L.A.M.B were my favourite grid print designers, both using large scale grid prints in striking black and white. It will be extremely interesting to see whether any of the British designers at London fashion week are advocating this tartan/grid pint trend.
Thursday, 19 September 2013
New York fashion week print report:abstract prints.
Fashion trends tend to react to one another in a similar way to art movements. We seem to enjoy rebelling against the most recent trends and this is the nature of fashion. The Art Deco movement with its minimalist angular shapes is a perfect example of a movement in reaction to its predecessor-Art Nouveau's which was characterised by curved lines and floral tendrils. The punk subculture with its starched mohicans and studded clothing was a reaction to the hippies.
I believe print design works in a similar way and that this abstract trend embracing curved lines and lacking in obvious form is a reaction to the structured grid/ geometric prints that have recently controlled the catwalk.
For SS14, designers seem to have gone incredibly abstract with their choice of prints. I have categorized these abstract prints as abstract agate prints,made up of curvilinear shapes and colour bands resembling mineral formations and agate rocks and painterly abstract print is which use blurred imagery and obvious brushstrokes.
If we look at the stylesight trend predictions for SS14 (posted here: http://textilecandy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/stylesights-trend-predictions-ss14.html) we can see that this trend fits perfectly with the 'rational' trend prediction and it's 'mineral geometric structures'. This was the trend I was most looking forward to seeing interpreted on the catwalk and I'm extremely happy that this is the direction so many designers are going for in SS14.
I have always found Agate rocks extremely beautiful with their tonal coloured bands and crystallized centres, and after recently visiting the Natural history museum and seeing their agate and precious stones collection found myself wondering why these natural formations have never inspired catwalk fashion.
In my opinion the designers which champion this trend are Peter Som with his liquefied blue colour bands and Robert Rodriguez who has combined the curved abstract lines with a very structured garment- I love the contrast!
...................
Alongside the agate inspired band abstract trend is the painterly abstract designs. Ink wash fabric, tie dye and unrecognizable blurred shapes are the main aspects of this branch of the abstract trend. Embodying colours adopted by romanticism; greys, pale blues and pastel pinks, and the electric brights of tie dye, there is so much scope for creative interpretation with this trend.
Punk vs Hippie |
I believe print design works in a similar way and that this abstract trend embracing curved lines and lacking in obvious form is a reaction to the structured grid/ geometric prints that have recently controlled the catwalk.
For SS14, designers seem to have gone incredibly abstract with their choice of prints. I have categorized these abstract prints as abstract agate prints,made up of curvilinear shapes and colour bands resembling mineral formations and agate rocks and painterly abstract print is which use blurred imagery and obvious brushstrokes.
If we look at the stylesight trend predictions for SS14 (posted here: http://textilecandy.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/stylesights-trend-predictions-ss14.html) we can see that this trend fits perfectly with the 'rational' trend prediction and it's 'mineral geometric structures'. This was the trend I was most looking forward to seeing interpreted on the catwalk and I'm extremely happy that this is the direction so many designers are going for in SS14.
I have always found Agate rocks extremely beautiful with their tonal coloured bands and crystallized centres, and after recently visiting the Natural history museum and seeing their agate and precious stones collection found myself wondering why these natural formations have never inspired catwalk fashion.
1.Philip Lim, 2.Robert Rodriguez, 3.Philip Lim, 4.Jeremy Laing, 5.Clover Canyon, 6.Rachel Comey, 7.Philip Lim, 8.ICB, 9.Peter Som, 10.Rachel Comey, 11.Peter Som. |
In my opinion the designers which champion this trend are Peter Som with his liquefied blue colour bands and Robert Rodriguez who has combined the curved abstract lines with a very structured garment- I love the contrast!
...................
Alongside the agate inspired band abstract trend is the painterly abstract designs. Ink wash fabric, tie dye and unrecognizable blurred shapes are the main aspects of this branch of the abstract trend. Embodying colours adopted by romanticism; greys, pale blues and pastel pinks, and the electric brights of tie dye, there is so much scope for creative interpretation with this trend.
Josie Natori with her vibrant digital ink ombre fabric champions the bright side of this trend and Misha Nonoo exudes femenine romanticism in her collection. Another designer that falls into this trend is Zimmermann, although his collection wasn't my favourite, I just want to draw your attention to one of his print designs which is abstract yet figurative and still extremely romantic.
Saturday, 14 September 2013
New York Fashion week: The colour post!
I have decided that, instead of waiting until the fashion weeks are over and then doing a mass blog post on the emerging trends, this season I am going to do a blog post for each fashion week and then do an overall trend summary when fashion week has finished.
An unexpected offshoot of the primary colour trend is the blue+red/orange colour combination which I absolutely love! Exaggerated by Diane Von Furstenberg and Tracy Reese and toned down by Trina Turk and Lela Rose- either way, it works!
For AW13 jewel tones of royal blue and cobalt were the 'in' shades of blue, for SS14 blue has taken on a lighter, brighter feel with icy blue and cerulean shades. An odd decision for Spring as these colours are often thought of as wintery, but contemporary designers seem to love rebelling against our expectations of seasonal fashion.
I also might have to break these posts up a little to avoid them getting too lengthy. So here is the first part of New York fashion week: the colour post!
Judging by its huge presence in almost every catwalk collection, the monochrome trend is here to stay for another season. As a huge lover of colour, I was almost disappointed when Black and white took over the SS catwalk in 2012. A season that usually guarantees bursts of colour was 'taken over' by an army of black and white. Despite my initial opposition to black and white, I am now in complete support of this trend and I simply love the graphic print designs that have come to characterize it. The monochromatic colour palette seems to lend itself perfectly to extremely linear and geometric designs, grids prints being a favourite(Kaelen, Sass&Bide,Vivienne Tam).
I particularly love how the New York SS14 collections have begun to introduce this colour scheme into spring/summer florals. Gone is the naivety of the pastel, watercolour spring floral we have grown to expect, this new floral is strong,bold and screaming out for attention.
1.Oscar De La Renta, 2.Tracy Reese, 3.Tibi, 4.Vivienne Tam, 5.Cushnie et Ochs, 6. Oscar De La Renta, 7.Dennis Basso, 8.Peter Som, 9.Dennis Basso, 10.Suno, 11.Ruffian. |
In my opinion this trend is done best in linear form by Yigal Azrouel with his chaotic linear clusters which resemble scribbles; in grid form by Kaelen with their inverted white on black grids next to black on white grids;and in floral form by Dennis Basso with his huge stencil style florals.
Aside from the continuation of the black and white trend, designers at New York fashion week seemed to have centred their collections around bold primary colours. The catwalk collections had an abundance of yellow- a colour feared by most women,unless you have completely flawless olive skin, look like Naomi Campbell or have the complexion of snow white(none of which I posses). This dreaded colour has clambered back into the Spring/Summer collections. I, personally have no problem with yellow as a colour, but it is very difficult to wear well.
Although the majority of catwalk designers seemed to have gone down the yellow colour blocking route, I think Prabal Gurung absolutely nails this colour trend by breaking it up with a black and white floral print. Tia Cibani also demonstrates that yellow can be diluted down into a wearable colour trend by introducing strips of yellow into one of her jackets, maybe there is some hope for spring yellows.
The next colour that caught my attention was the introduction of green. Although not present in every designers collection, there was still a fair amount of it in a variety of shades- emerald green at ICB, forest green at Tess Giberson and paler tones at Calla.
1.Philosophy, 2.Band of Outsiders, 3.J.Mendel, 4.Rodebjer, 5.Maki Oh, 6.Tess Giberson, 7.Tibi, 8.Maison Martin Margiela, 9.ICB, 10.Prabal Gurung, 11.Richard Chai, 12.Sachin and Babi, 13.Kenneth Cole. |
Sticking with the primary colours theme, red was another colour that featured in almost every collection. The red tones which were present at both the SS and AW catwalks of 2013 have continued through to SS14 but have taken on a new tone. Where before it was crimson,the colour has evolved into scarlet and red tones are now bordering on fiery orange.
An unexpected offshoot of the primary colour trend is the blue+red/orange colour combination which I absolutely love! Exaggerated by Diane Von Furstenberg and Tracy Reese and toned down by Trina Turk and Lela Rose- either way, it works!
For AW13 jewel tones of royal blue and cobalt were the 'in' shades of blue, for SS14 blue has taken on a lighter, brighter feel with icy blue and cerulean shades. An odd decision for Spring as these colours are often thought of as wintery, but contemporary designers seem to love rebelling against our expectations of seasonal fashion.
Metallic!Metallic!Metallic!Not exactly a colour, but it's popularity on the New York fashion scene is incomparable. With practically every designer featuring at least one garment with a metallic edge to it, this will undoubtedly be a trend that receives acclamation from the high street.
Appearing in a variety of different colours from the safe bronze and silver to more experimental shades of purple and blue. Designers have used a variety of different ways to create the furtutirstic metallic look in their collections, whether this be through fabrication, embellishment or foiling.
Tuesday, 10 September 2013
Stylesight's trend predictions SS14
Below are some boards I have put together using images from stylesight's predicted trends for SS14. They're pretty self explanatory. The trend I'm looking forward to seeing interpreted on the catwalk most is the 'rational' trend. I am really interested to see which of these 3 trends make it to the catwalks over the next few weeks!
CREED trend Spring/Summer2014 |
EDEN trend Spring/Summer2014 |
RATIONAL trend Spring/Summer2014 |
I have also started collating the images from New York fashion week into emerging trends and will post them on here before the weekend. I can't post them quite yet until all of the shows have finished.
V&A trip, insta obsession and Markus Lupfer
On Sunday I decided to give myself an overdue gallery/museum fix and went on a visit to the V&A. I absolutely love it there and have been waiting for ages for them to get their Fashion and Textiles section back up and running. It seemed a perfect time to go and visit as it's literally right next door to my church in South Kensington.
Not only are the exhibits in the museum amazing, I also love the interior architecture the carved stone arches and the decorative ceiling domes. The carved patterns in the stonework are so inspirational and I could see them being easily interpreted into repeat fabric prints.
It seems that on every trip to the V&A something new catches my attention and, although I am predominantly a textile/fashion designer, it was the detailed architectural sketches made up of tiny lines and the curling wrought iron that caught my attention the most.
The keys in the iron section of the museum were of particular interest to me and I was amazed by how intricate the handles were, definitely puts our dull minimalist style keys to shame.
I got a little bit carried away instagramming while I was there - I have only just discovered the instagram app and am now completely hooked. It's such a great way to record everything from image research to memories and I love the different filters you can add to your photos. Anyway, If any wants to follow me on instagram I've put the link below so you can see all of the above images and the information that goes with them:
Markus Lupfer is a London based designer whose designs were recently brought to my attention at work. His collection of sequin trims on knitted jumpers are a great way to interpret print into knitwear. I have really enjoyed experimenting with this technique at work and can't wait to see what the samples look like!
Thursday, 5 September 2013
Tartan takeover!
Givenchy AW 13. |
Although tartan has strong associations with the 90's grunge movement, this fabric is the widely recognized uniform of the Punk movement a traditionally British fabric to represent a subculture of British origin.
1970's punk sub-culture. |
Left to right: Zandra Rhodes and on of her dresses, Vivienne Westwood's previous work and the designer herself.. |
So why the emergence of Punk now?
I refuse to accept that fashion is simply based on aesthetics and believe that if we acknowledge that fashion is an industry which responds to social and political atmosphere, it is possible to predict what trends are going to gain popularity.
The world, the UK in particular, is currently experiencing a great deal of change, controversy and rebellion, this is the perfect social atmosphere for punk, a style embracing and actively encouraging rebellion, to re-emerge. Although most of the current catastrophes are focussed away from home, it is our reaction to these circumstances which allows Punk and similar rebellious fashion styles to creep back in. It is a psychological certainty that in times of turmoil we refer back to what we know, and the return to Punk styling is a perfect example of this.
The recent 'Punk:Chaos to Couture' exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York(which ended in August)featured work from designers such as Versace, Galliano and Christopher Kane amongst many other renowned names. It attempted to harness the Punk spirit and draw parallels between contemporary fashion and vintage punk(see images below).
According to Andrew Bolton(Curator at the Metropolitan Museum),
"Since its origins, punk has had an incendiary influence on fashion, Although punk’s democracy stands in opposition to fashion’s autocracy, designers continue to appropriate punk’s aesthetic vocabulary to capture its youthful rebelliousness and aggressive forcefulness."
It is this 'youthful rebellion' and 'aggressive forcefulness' that ensures that Punk will continue to re-emerge whenever there is a social atmosphere of unrest.
Anyway, on a more aesthetic note, below are my picks from the high street stores. Personally I think that Topshop with its variation of tartan colour ways and Forever21 with its experimentation of tartan applique(love jumper and cross knee leggings) have interpreted this trend best.
Forever21. |
H&M. |
Mango. |
River Island. |
ASOS. |
Boohoo. |
Glamorous. |
Missguided. |
Nastygal. |
Primark Spree and new shoes!
I have finally booked my London fashion week tickets!!!Well London fashion weekend anyway, which I'm sure will be just as exciting!
I can't wait to wander around looking at the stores and I'm also looking forward to seeing the trend catwalks- after the vast magnitude of printed garments in the recent fashion weeks, I'm extremely excited to see what next year has in store....This does however mean I need to choose an outfit...which also means I get to buy a new outfit....as a response to this I decided t go on a mini spree, which actually didn't damage my bank balance too much as it was only to Primark. This being said, I was extremely impressed with their current range and bought some absolute beauts...
I find that whenever I tell people that I work in fashion they seem to quickly assume that as a female who works in this industry I own a lot of shoes...which I don't...so not wanting to disappoint people I have decided that I probably need to buy some more(what a shame!)
I had a lengthy browse online for some relatively cheap flatforms seeing as I seem to have a little bit of an obsession with featuring them in my style posts. I came across these beauties on glamorous.co.uk and they reminded me of some I saw in New Look a few months ago which I desperately wanted but couldn't get as they didn't have my shoe size- the downfall of being a massive shortie with size 3 feet!
Anyway I test drove them to work today and they were so comfortable and easy to walk in and I didn't even stumble/stub my toe/fall spread eagled on the floor a single time, which is a rarity for me regardless of heel size.
Another amazing thing about these shoes is that they were only £7.00 and with a cheeky online promotion code that I found I got them for the bargain price of £5.60- absolute steal!
While online window shopping(is that even a thing?) I came across these perspex clutch bags on the Topshop and River Island sites. I have previously blogged about the perspex bag trend and these clutches embody this trend perfectly, I think I might have to attempt to make one for London fashion weekend.
I can't wait to wander around looking at the stores and I'm also looking forward to seeing the trend catwalks- after the vast magnitude of printed garments in the recent fashion weeks, I'm extremely excited to see what next year has in store....This does however mean I need to choose an outfit...which also means I get to buy a new outfit....as a response to this I decided t go on a mini spree, which actually didn't damage my bank balance too much as it was only to Primark. This being said, I was extremely impressed with their current range and bought some absolute beauts...
Primark: Tops both £5.00, Necklace £8.00, Cut-out boots £18.00, H&M fringed bag £14.99. |
Cheeky selfie of me enjoying my new purchases! |
I find that whenever I tell people that I work in fashion they seem to quickly assume that as a female who works in this industry I own a lot of shoes...which I don't...so not wanting to disappoint people I have decided that I probably need to buy some more(what a shame!)
I had a lengthy browse online for some relatively cheap flatforms seeing as I seem to have a little bit of an obsession with featuring them in my style posts. I came across these beauties on glamorous.co.uk and they reminded me of some I saw in New Look a few months ago which I desperately wanted but couldn't get as they didn't have my shoe size- the downfall of being a massive shortie with size 3 feet!
'Glamorous' shoes only £7.00!!!!! |
Anyway I test drove them to work today and they were so comfortable and easy to walk in and I didn't even stumble/stub my toe/fall spread eagled on the floor a single time, which is a rarity for me regardless of heel size.
Another amazing thing about these shoes is that they were only £7.00 and with a cheeky online promotion code that I found I got them for the bargain price of £5.60- absolute steal!
While online window shopping(is that even a thing?) I came across these perspex clutch bags on the Topshop and River Island sites. I have previously blogged about the perspex bag trend and these clutches embody this trend perfectly, I think I might have to attempt to make one for London fashion weekend.
Topshop £40.00,River Island £35.00. |
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